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When
most people think of Montana, I'm presuming they think of big blue skies,
open valleys, and crystal-clear streams rippling through pristine mountainsides.
Of course, when I think of Montana, I think of Ghost Towns and prisons.
We already saw my experience at the fun-filled Old Montana Prison, so
now it's time to search for some ghosts!
The
day did not get off to a very promising start. It was a bleary October
Sunday when we awoke to find that snow was drifting through the cold
Helena sky. I had been advised that the best of the local ghost towns
was Elkhorn, which was up in the mountains, so I was quite nervous that
we wouldn't be able to make it up there after all. So, instead, we went
sightseeing at some of the grand old mansions in town. Did you know
that Helena was once one of the richest towns in America? You see a
lot of really interesting
and beautiful old mansions up in
the hills of Helena. On this particular morning, the benefit of snow
falling on them made them even more pretty. It was certainly a nice
way to pass some time in town.
Finally,
however, the weather cleared up, the snow stopped, and we decided to
take a chance on Elkhorn. Good thing too, because as it turned out there
was nary a snowflake to be found in the town. Before I begin the picture
show, let me give you a little detail about this lovely little ghost
town, as taken from a sign as you enter the vicinity:
"In
1868 the first mine was started in the Elkhorns. A. M. Holter, a Virginia
City pioneer, started the Elkhorn Mine in 1875. By February of 1888,
the mine was producing $30,000 worth of ore monthly. As the mine developed
during the 1870's the town of Elkhorn grew up around it. As many as
2500 people lived in the town of Elkhorn during the 1880's. During this
time period up to 1600 mules worked the mines and 500 woodsmen cut timber
for the mines. By 1900 the Elkhorn Mine had produced 8,902,000 ounces
of silver and 8500 ounces of gold and more than 4 million pounds of
lead. Elkhorn's population boom days ended in 1892 when the price of
silver fell. Over time the population of Elkhorn fell to what you see
here today."
Of
course, the sign doesn't tell the whole story ... which is why I'm here,
huh? So, without further ado, Welcome To Elkhorn!

This is the most oft-photographed scene in Elkhorn: Gillian Hall
(left) and Fraternity Hall (right). Unfortunately, it wasn't the
prettiest of days on October 28, 2001. Wouldn't this look lovely
with a brilliant blue sky with a few white puffy clouds? Oh well...
I'm sure you can find those sorts of pictures in books, anyway!
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Here's a close-up of Gillian Hall, which was built in the 1880's.
It originally housed a store or saloon on the first floor, and
a dance hall upstairs. Hmmm... I wonder what the dance hall was
like back "in the day"... Of course, I envision something
wild, violent, and dangerous... but that's just me... =)
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Here's a peek through the window of Gillian Hall. Ooooh, doesn't
it look ghostly!! You just gotta love the photographic effect
of dirt on glass.
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I though this was the nicer of the two buildings: Fraternity
Hall. This structure was built in the 1890's and is considered
one of the most important historic structures in Montana. It
was used for shows and dances and lodges met upstairs. Men's
only, I'm quite sure...
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Although the Halls are the stars of Elkhorn architecture, there
are remnants of many other buildings lying strewn around the countryside.
There are also signs marking where buildings once stood. Like
this one, across the street from the Halls, which commemorates
the location of the Hoffman Barbershop, the only place you could
get a bath in Elkhorn from 1880-90. It's important to know things
like this...
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I don't know what this building was, but I thought it was kind
of nice. You can see some of the rock debris (I'm sure there's
some official term for it, but I'm not a miner, so I wouldn't
know) from the mine at the right of the frame.
(Damon wrote me and informed me that this building is the Grand
Hotel of Elkhorn.)
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Here's the shoemaker's shop. I don't think anyone's walked out
of here in a new pair of Adidas for quite awhile though...
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Another forgotten old building... You see the pickup truck in
the far left? There are still a few families living in this area,
mainly in run-down old houses and trailers, and the thought of
the people who must have driven those trucks was much more frightening
a concept than any ghost could be! I mean, don't these people
know this is a ghost town? They did rather ruin the atmosphere
of the place, I found...
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Here's a side view of the same decrepit building in the previous
shot...i
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Here is a shot of some remnants of the old mine. I wish I could
have gone up and explored that a bit more, but I was afraid of
being shot by one of the locals!
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A rather picturesque old chute from the Elkhorn Mine.
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This is the first doctor's office which later became the cabin
of Ed Ratelle, the mine watchman.
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Inside Ed's old cabin... Less-than-exquisite decay...
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The stove in Ed's kitchen...
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Another of my favorite ruins...
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This one says "Keep Out" on it, so I guess it must be
used for something still...
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Another shot showing the Montana countryside...
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And a nice view of the valley below... I'm still surprised there
was no snow up here...
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One more shot of Elkhorn before we decided to drive up the road
to the graveyard...
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The graveyard at Elkhorn was isolated at the end of a dirt road,
but it was worth the drive and the walk up the hill (Yes, I Am
Lazy). One thing they had here were a few old weathered wooden
tombstones, which added a certain rustic appeal. These ones were
for the Graeseth Family: Henerette (1891-1891), Hogan Jr. (1900-1904),
Edward (1907-1908) and the long-lived daddy (I assume) Hogan (1859-1921).
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One of the great tragedies of Elkhorn was an epidemic of diphtheria
that broke out in the late 1880's-early 1890's and killed a
large percentage of the children in town. This tragedy certainly
helped to hasten the town's demise. Here's the lamb-covered
grave of what may be two of the victims:
Richard
N. Bennetts
Born Dec. 8, 1888
Died Nov. 17, 1890
and
his sister (yet more presumptions)
Lillian
Bennetts
Born Sept. 30, 1891
Died Nov. 21, 1891
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In the foreground is another sad grave for the Children of E.F.
& I. E. Hardin.
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This is one of the nicest stones in the yard... and another
sad monument to children that are most likely victims of the
epidemic:
HERE
RESTS THE SWEETEST BUDS OF HOPE.
BEATRICE
M.
DIED
JULY 13, 1889.
AGED
3 Y's. 6 M's. 4 D's.
CLARA
H.
DIED
JUNE 15, 1889.
AGED 5 Y'rs. 7 D's.
CHILDREN
OF
W. J. & S. J. ROBERTS
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Another view of the sad tombstone... set in peaceful repose
in the pretty Montana countryside...
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Seemingly another victim of the epidemic:
E.
ALGERON
Died
July 16, 1889.
Aged
5 Years
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Another possible victim of the epidemic:
ROSE
DAU. OF
Wm. & NETTIE
ROBINS
Died
April 3, 1889
Aged
11 Y's. 2 M's. 18 D's.
Gone
'ere sin could blight or sorrow fade
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This boy died on my birthday (err... a few years before I was
born though... Honest!!):
HARRY
H.
SON OF
J.H. & J.
WALTON.
Died
Sept. 27, 1889
Aged
8 Yrs. 7 Mos.
19 Days
According
to Interment.Net,
this boy shares his gravestone with Albin Nelson, and they died
in an explosion. For once, not a victim of an epidemic!
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This is one of my favorite shots from this photo session: The
rather attractive grave of Lanius B. Banta who died on January
15, 1889 at the age of 16 years, 11 months.
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Another sad victim.
LOUIS
KETCHUM
Adopted SON of
F. & J. FOSTER
Died
Mar. 5, 1889
Aged
4 Yrs. 17 Days
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Here's a perfectly lovely (and sad) gravestone:
IN
LOVING MEMORY
OF
ANNE BOWDEN,
2nd DAUGHTER
OF
THOMAS H.
AND
ANNE BARKER,
BORN MAY 1, 1893
DIED JUNE 30, 1898
AGED 5 YEARS AND 2 MONTHS
Like
the dove to the arc thou hast flown to thy rest, from the wild
sea of strife, to the home of the blest, sleep on in thy beauty
thou sweet angel child, by sorrow unblighted by sin undefiled
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Another sad little grave - this one dating from a decade later
than most, so probably not a result of the diptheria epidemic...
ANNIE
OPIE
DIED
Jan. 21, 1898
AE. 1 Yr 3 M's 16 D's
Thy hands are clasped upon thy breast. We have kissed thy
lovely brow. And in our aching hearts we know. We have no Darling
now.
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There are still a few old wooden gravestones (er, actually, I
guess that would be 'gravewoods') in the cemetery.. Though they
are far too eroded to be read.
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Here's a lovely old gravestone, with an extremely well-preserved
"grasping hands" motif.
HENRY
O. NIELSON
Born
Mar. 1, 1862
Died
Mar. 3, 1889
Interment.Net
states that Henry died of Typhoid Fever.
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And finally, before we leave the Elkhorn Cemetery, let's pay
homage to Peter Wys (1824-1872), the "discoverer of the
Elkhorn Mine". I dunno if that sort of thing should really
be celebrated, but hey - without him, none of these pretty little
tombstones and decrepit structures would exist. Hurray, Pete!!
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We headed back through the town, and I had to get a shot of this
sadly fallen building. I wonder what sort of history passed through
this structure before us...
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A rustic old wagon, its usefulness long since passed, rots mournfully
in a field...
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Another rusted and forgotten piece of equipment - this time an
old furnace. I would have loved this place as a kid! Imagine the
things you could find here! (Actually, I'm loving it as an adult
too!!)
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Another poignant reminder of the past... Once a grand automobile,
now apparently a target for the local hick boys to practice shooting
at. Sigh...
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Another nearly hidden piece of rusting machinery. Rather picturesque,
don't you think?
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And with one last glimpse of a ruin, we bid adieu to the ghost
town of Elkhorn. If only the people still residing there weren't
scarier than the ghosts, I might have done more exploring still!
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